HOW TO build your OWN 4 wheeler racks!!

[lynx/cat-trapper]

OK here is how I did it. FIRST off one needs to decide WHAT your primary gear will be that you will be carrying... I based my rack dimensions on "milk crates" and a gas can...
The front can hold two LARGE milk crates..OR 3 small crates

the rear can hold two LARGE crates & a 2gal gas can..

OR two small crates and ONE large crate..

I laid this setup out and measure it BEFORE cutting any metal...better a little larger than a 1/4" too small.
The front rack is not only narrower than the rear..but SEVERAL inches lower...vision being the main concern here. The frame was built out of 1/8" flat stock and 1/8" channel all tacked...
and measure so the cross braces match the factory racks ribs for attachment..

DONT weld er up till it's RIGHT.... I got lucky and got this one right the FIRST time...
NOTICE the ribbing/bracing on the BOTTOM of the rack...it ALL mates up to the factory rib's..


NOTICE the difference between front/rear...the rear is LARGER as it will be used to carry MORE than the front..

At THIS point in time I took measurement...sides..and bottom of each rack... I then drew them out on a piece of paper and took the "plans" to the local scrap/metal yard.... they sold me the sheet of expanded metal...and only charged me 3.00 to make the cuts...virtually NO WASTE out of a 4x8 sheet!!!
The rear rack with the expanded metal welded in...AND painted!!! NOTICE the 4 mounting points... 4 U bolts,some washers and lock nuts...ALL figured out BEFORE the rack was welded solid...I ALSO allowed room in the front to be able to REMOVE the seat (LUCKY I thought of that ;D)

The front rack..welded up with AGAIN 4 mounting points...

AND the finished product...

Some "action" pic's of the rack in use...NOTICE the side mount for the 5' ketchall...
4 cats out of 5 traps....

The MOTHER LOAD...

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REFLECTIONS after 3yrs with the rack.
1. Regular expanded metal gaps may be TOO large..allows some chains and J hooks to tie up..ESPECIALLY after they've sliped thru the crates then TIED them down the the rack... NEXT time I'd use smaller metal..
2. ZERO problems with the rack.... had to tighten the front left side ONCE... all other mounts remained ROCK solid.
3. DONT use crates in the front anymore...it carries a 3' ketchall(if I dont want to use the 5') BIT personal with a cat on a 3' pole tho.. . carry traps/drags,ALWAYS gas in the rear...pole,lure,CATCHES in the front.
4. VERY GLAD I overbuilt it... two years ago I flip'd it out of the back of my GMC..landed SQUARE on top of me...if it had NOT been built like it was...I'd have been killed. The racks survived the tumble NO PROBLEMS what soever... however I had to remove the rear rack...all the body work and reinforce and weld up most of the rear of the 4 wheeler...the impact broke at least 6 welds.

HOPE this gives you some idea's!!
lynx

[mtbadger]

Heck we're all getting old waiting for this "coming soon".....

[lynx/cat-trapper]

[trapperchick]

Don't tease us that way!!!!

[bobcatching]

I don't wanna see lynxies rack. No way, no how, no time ;D

[tomcat]

I think I remember lynx saying that his rack saved his life one time. He must have a heck of a rack..

[grumpyoldman]

Yeah, quit teasing we wanna see your rack.......

[wackyquacker]

If you don't own a 4 wheeler can you view this thread?

[bobcatching]

Contains exposed racks, for mature quads only.

tomcat, The right size rack will sure save your quad from a lot of damage if it rolls, and rolls, and rolls.

[Jack Kelley]

May 10, 2009 16:16:09 GMT -7 @grumpyoldman said:

Yeah, quit teasing we wanna see your rack.......

Lynx has a rack??? Did something happen on the west coast we all ain't aware of?

[masonjarr]

I might only live a few more years, so we can't wait forever for Brent! Here's how I have mine rigged. It works for me, but might not be to other's liking:

The back rack is just a rectangular rack welded from angle iron. I had an oversize and standard milk crate, so I made the frame to fit what I had. I think you could also do it with three standard crates and barely be outside the rear wheel width. On the sides, I used pipe clamps to strap on some PVC pipe. One holds my dirthole tool and the other one holds my disposable stake driver. The big PVC tube in the crate is where I haul my rebar stakes.



To hold the frame to my ATV rear rack, I took some scrap aluminum stock I had and drilled it to accept a couple of U bolts. I put one of these inside each milk crate. I then used nylock nuts so they wouldn't loosen up during the season.



On the front end I didn't want anything on the ATV rack because I like to keep it free. It seems like with too much stuff on the front rack I'm always having a hard time steering. Plus I carry my AR on there and I like to be able to get to it quickly in case I need to bust a cap in a running coyote or trap thief! I've got a good McGuiver type buddy that helped me design a "shelf" for the front that can be carried upright when I dont' need it and then easily moved to the usable position. Here's what it looks like when it's in the stored position.



The grates serve two purposes; it lets me use the headlights when I'm running at night (the original design didn't have this feature and was one of those DUH moments) and it lets blood drain off the shelf if I've got some bleeding animals on it.

Here's the only part that is semi-permanently attached to my ATV.




The shelf has some "arms" on it that slide into the above bracket and are held in place with some all thread rod with a nylock nut on one end and then a hold drilled on the other side of the all thread to accept a pin.





I added the eyebolts on the shelf so I could string bungies across it to hold down whatever I'm carrying at the time.

Later on I decided I wanted to have a portable skinning pole in case I was in an area that didn't have any trees or fence posts handy. I knew it would have to be in two pieces, otherwise it would stick out too far on each end of the ATV. Here it is deployed.



The bottom that slides into the attachment points on the ATV.



Mid-point where the two pieces join together.



And the business end. The "hook" swivels so I can turn it in when it's stored.



When the shelf is stored, the tabs on the shelf mate up with the same tubes that the arms slide into when it's down. The same pins hold it in place.



The skinning pole pieces fit on the shelf arms (which are on top when the shelf is stored) and another, longer piece of all thread with a nylock nut and a pin hold that in place.



When the whole deal is stored I wrap a couple of bungies around it all to keep it from rattling and bouncing around.

[decoy]

DO IT MASON, he's off on another trip I suppose. Upset with him anyway :-)

[lynx/cat-trapper]

LOVE that way that front rack folds...down I'd have problems in a couple area's.. like the BACK OF MY TRUCK!!! ;D ;D

[mtbadger]

May 11, 2009 6:26:02 GMT -7 bobcatching said:

Contains exposed racks, for mature quads only.

tomcat, The right size rack will sure save your quad from a lot of damage if it rolls, and rolls, and rolls.

My quad is bigger than Lynxies....

[lynx/cat-trapper]

Mine aint big...but it "built"... you know... kinda like ************ ;D ;D (ya gotta FILL IN the blanks ;D ;D